Massimo Bottura's Recipes for Ragu and Spaghetti Cetarese

1. Prepare a soffritto in a deep and heavy bottomed pan by adding diced onion, carrot and celery to pan warmed with olive oil. Simmer on low for about 15 minutes or until onions are glassy and carrots tender.

2. Melt and crisp pancetta in a separate skillet on medium for about five minutes. Add pancetta to soffritto.

3. Flour the chunks of meat in a bowl or on working surface. Clean pancetta skillet and warm it with olive oil then add the meat. Lightly brown. Add the wine. Raise heat and continue cooking until wine evaporates.

4. Add meat to soffritto and pancetta mix.

5. Clean skillet and brown the bone marrow in a drop of olive oil.

6. Add marrow to soffritto, pancetta and meat mix.

6. Add bay leaf, rosemary, wine and stock.

7. Simmer for 1½ to two hours at a low temperature with wax paper covering and lid. (This keeps the moisture in.)

How do you know it's ready?

The meat should be very tender and falling off the bone. Take off the heat and let cool for half an hour. Take out meat, debone and cut into small pieces. Return meat to ragu. Simmer the ragu uncovered on to low heat until a thick and fragrant sauce forms.

Clean and debone the anchovies. Chop the pine nuts, capers and anchovies to make a pesto-like mixture. Use a sharp knife, not a blender. It is very important not to crush the ingredients. Add the garlic and olive oil.

Blanch the parsley leaves in salted boiling water for 20 seconds. Chill them immediately in iced water, then pat dry. Put them in a blender with the oil and salt and process to a velvety texture.

Remove the heart from each garlic clove. Marinate in half the milk overnight, covered with clingfilm (plastic wrap). Discard the milk and reserve the garlic. Bring the remaining milk to a boil with the sugar and salt. Blanch the garlic for 1 minute in the milk, then remove it. Repeat this twice. Put the garlic in a separate container and use just enough of the milk to blend it to a creamy paste with a hand-held blender.

Cut the crusts off the bread. Tear it into small crumbs by hand. Toast the breadcrumbs in a pan with a little olive oil and red pepper oil.

1. For the pesto, clean and debone the anchovies. Chop the pine nuts, capers and anchovies to make a pesto-like mixture. Use a sharp knife, not a blender. It is very important not to crush the ingredients. Add the garlic and olive oil.

2. For the parsley oil, blanch the parsley leaves in salted boiling water for 20 seconds. Chill them immediately in iced water, then pat dry. Put them in a blender with the oil and salt and process to a velvety texture.

3. For the garlic cream, remove the heart from each garlic clove. Marinate in half the milk overnight, covered with clingfilm (plastic wrap). Discard the milk and reserve the garlic. Bring the remaining milk to a boil with the sugar and salt. Blanch the garlic for one minute in the milk, then remove it. Repeat this twice. Put the garlic in a separate container and use just enough of the milk to blend it to a creamy paste with a hand-held blender.

4. For the breadcrumbs, cut the crusts off the bread. Tear it into small crumbs by hand. Toast the breadcrumbs in a pan with a little olive oil and red pepper oil.

5. Put the pasta in a large pan with 10 kilograms salted boiling water until it is half cooked. Drain the spaghetti and return it to the pan with the colatura di alici, one tablespoon oil, the garlic cream and one tablespoon pesto. Finish cooking it as if it was a risotto, adding more fish stock and pesto as needed. At the very end, stir in the parsley oil. Top with crunchy breadcrumbs, as if they were grated cheese, and serve.